The name means “Girls in Needles” – and pine needles at that, rather than chic “talons aiguilles” (stiletto heels)… But boys can roll around in them too: this is a decidedly non-gendered, atmospheric scent.

Pine essence is a risky bet in perfumery: its medicinal, turpentine fumes conjure household disinfectants or cough drops and are particularly hard to tame. Serge Lutens, never one to shirk a challenge, opted for playing them up rather than tamping them down: the result is uncharacteristically raw, almost minimalist. In Filles en Aiguilles, the powerful resinous smell of pine is compounded by the camphor blast of vetiver and a wisp of gunpowder incense. Fruity fir balsam and the trademark Lutens candied fruit notes sweeten the blend without playing down its dark green radiance.

A searing afternoon in Mediterranean pine groves or a Californian forest; a Buddhist temple or Christmas morning; the hale aroma of a lumber yard; a painter’s studio strewn with turpentine-soaked rags… Whatever memories Filles en Aiguilles conjures, this poignantly evocative, meditative potion will somehow feel healing. You’ll need it this winter.

Notes

Pine needles, vetiver, sugary sap, laurel, fir balsam, frankincense, candied fruit and spice.